2024年3月14日发(作者：)

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中国近代服饰变革

小组成员：徐雨惠子，朱倩，李娜，周刊，李睿乾

Great changes in fashion habe taken place in the 60 years since 1949 and the founding

of New China. These changes provide us with a vivid illustration of an assortment of

historical movements that have influenced several generations of Chinese. Each change in

color or detail, which sped up since 1976,defined the respective era’s rapid economic

development and helped transform people’s minds. We’d like to explore these changes in each

decade with you.

回眸新中国60年服饰变迁，无论颜色还是款式，抑或服饰细节，都发生了翻天覆地的变化，无

一不体现着几代人伴随着共和国走过的路。尤其是改革开放以来，服装发生这日新月异的变化，风

格由单一渐趋多元，色彩由单调趋于斑斓，而隐于背后的是社会经济的巨大发展、人们思想观念的

多元变化。下面我们将划分5个年代，为大家展开这幅生动的服饰画卷。

（1）50年代：中山装列宁服

As New China’s ideology changed, Western- style suits and cheongsams among the upper

classes gradually faded from the mainstream. By contrast people prided themselves on

wearing Chinese tunic suits and Lenin suits. Other favored clothing included military

uniforms , the bib and brace overall and “platye”( button-up dress). Gray, blue and green

were the colors of choice.

新中国诞生伊始，意识形态发生了翻天覆地的变化，从前被视为身份象征的西装革履和刺绣旗袍

被深深埋藏了，而能穿上中山装和列宁服的才是人们心目中羡慕的对象。50年代服装流行关键词还

有军便装、工装背带裤、“布拉吉”（连衣裙）。灰、蓝、绿成了流行色。

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图1：列宁装 图2：无彩中的一抹亮色——布拉吉

图3：工装背带裤

Once PLA troops were established in cities, people soon imitated the cadres’ uniforms.

The Chinese tunic suit, Chairman Mao Zedong’s favorite and known in the West as the “Mao

suit” became popular among Chinese men. The outfit features sharp lapels and slanting

pockets. The green version of the same clothes, known as military plain-clothes, later

came into vogue.

解放初期，进驻各个城市的军队干部都穿中山装，人们争相效仿。于是，尖领斜兜的毛式中山装

成为当时的主流男装款式，之后又出现了军便装等改良中山装系列。

图4：中山装后来成为中国男子标准服装“干部服”

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In the 1950s and early 60s, Chinese dress was deeply influenced by the Soviet Union.

Women wore the fashionable Lenin suit , a jacket-and-tro user combination featuring a large

turned-down collar,double lines of buttons, and slanting pockets. A belt around waist also

silhouetted a woman’s curvy figure.

在50年代至60年代初，中国在穿着上受前苏联的影响很大。中国女性穿起了时髦的列宁装，这

种大翻领、双排扣、斜口袋的套装或多或少带有装饰因素。它附加的腰带有助于女性身体线条的凸

现。

Also in the 1950s and early 60s, most Chinese women liked to wear “ platyes” in summer.

The Soviet female experts working in China often wore “platyes”, featuring round-collars,

loose short sleeves, pleated hemlines and a belt. “Platyes” were usually printed with dense

flower, tartan or striped patterns. Now, many middle-aged women are still seen wearing

modified “platyes” in summer.

50年代，身穿飘逸“布拉吉”的前苏联援华女专家成了大众直接模仿的对象。这种款式的特点

是有简单的圆领、宽松的短袖、褶皱边、碎花、格子和条纹，腰间系一条带子，流行了很久，以至

于现在许多中年妇女夏季的裙装还是褶皱稍加变化的“布拉吉”。

People honored physical labor and what could be termed a “severe style”. Women dressed

in cotton, and clothing made of expensive satin was discarded. Girls liked to wear bib

and brace overalls which had a chest pocket, and often chose brimmed hats and shoes with

rubber soles to go with them.

50年代的人们崇尚劳动最光荣，朴素是时尚。女性摒弃了缎面，而采用棉布做衣服，年轻姑娘

们曾一度爱上了背带工装裤。工装裤胸前有一个口袋，与之相配的一般是前檐工作帽、胶底布鞋。

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图5：雷锋帽

（2）60年代：全民集体“撞衫”

In the early 1960s,Sino-Soviet relations were strained and almost overnight the popular

Lenin suit and “platyes” disappeared. People dressed in blue and grey, shapeless clothes.

When the “ cultral revolution”(1966-76) began, only military uniforms could be seen in

China. Men and women wore the same garments.

60年代，中苏关系全面恶化，曾经风行一时的列宁装、“布拉吉”几乎一夜之间销声匿迹。蓝

灰为主的色调和肥大单一的款式诗这一时期中国服装的主要特点。随着60年代后期“文革”的开始，

中国服装被淹没在了一片“国防绿”里，无论男女，军装成了最高时尚。

图6：集体撞衫

China went through its hardest time in the early 60s. cotton production severly declined

during the Three Years of Natural Disaster(1959-61) resulting in limited cloth supply.

People had to purchase closthe with coupons, so they usually chose solid materials and

long-lasting black,blue and gray colors.

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60年代初期，是新中国历史上最艰苦的时期，由于3年自然灾害，棉花大幅减产，人们购衣须

凭布票。为了尽可能地节约，购买服装的标准是耐磨和耐脏，黑、蓝、灰色成为街头流行色。

Clothes full of darns marked the hard times. People never deserted torn clothes, but

patched them up in many places. “Hand me downs” became popular as it was common to pass

down a coat from elder brothers or sisters to younger siblings. People could only buy new

clothes during the Spring Festival.

物质生活的极为匮乏体现在衣着上：“新三年，旧三年，缝缝补补又三年”。那时，穿补丁的衣

服随处可见。家里小孩子多的，就只能“新老大，旧老二，缝缝补补给老三。”只有过年，才会有

新衣裳。

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图7：绿色军便装

In the mid-1960s, striped sailor shirts were common on the street. The shirts were

earlier seen in a 1957 Chinese movie featuring stars Zhao Dan and Wang Danfeng.

60年代中期，走到大街上放眼一望，一水的蓝白相间横条纹的海军衫。在1957年由赵丹和王丹

凤主演的电影《海魂》中，着装就是海魂衫。

From 1966 onwards, young men wore green uniforms military caps, a Sam Browne belt and

military shoes.

“文革”时，拥有一套军装是无数年轻人的理想。穿上军装，戴上军帽，腰扎皮带，足蹬解放鞋，

代表着当时服装美的时尚。

图8：海魂衫

（3）70年代：的确良，喇叭裤

The 1970s was an era of change, in which the “cultural revolution” came to an end and

China entered the period of reform and opening-up. At this time, clothing made of dacron

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and bell-bottomed pants came into people’s lives like a breath of fresh air. They represented

fashion and avant-courier and were popular with both men and women.

70年代，是一个转变的时代。“文化大革命”结束，中国进入了改革开放新时期。这时候，“的

确良”和喇叭裤如一股清风闯进人们的生活，代表着时髦和前卫，男女都穿。

Dacron was usually used to make short-sleeve shirts. According to current

fashion,dacron shirts are neither environmentally-friendly nor comfortable. The material

has bad air-permeability and doesn’t absorb ssweat in summer. But as it is crease-resistant

and hardy, and the print looks bright and colorful, it impressed the Chinese who had lived

in gray colors for dozens of years.

“的确良”通常用来做短袖衬衫。按现在的时尚观念来看，它既不环保，又不舒服，夏天透气性

差，不吸汗，然而当成怎么穿都不皱、不破，印花颜色鲜亮的“的确良”，让沉浸在灰暗色系十几

年的中国人顿时眼前一亮。

Bell-bottomed pants looked like trumpets. They wrapped the buttocks tightly with the

trouser legs tight in the thigh and loose in the calf so the curves of the hip and legs

were clearly presented. The pants were long enough to cover the heel and swept the floor

while walking. A guy was considered cool if he wore bell-bottomed pants and sun-glasses,

had long hair and carried a tape recorder.

喇叭裤是一种呈喇叭状的长裤，紧裹屁股，裤腿上窄下宽，将臀部于腿部的曲线清晰地勾勒出

来。裤长一般盖住鞋跟，走起路来，兼有拖地的效果。穿喇叭裤、戴蛤蟆镜、留一头长头发、再拎

一台录音机，就是这个年代男生最酷的形象。

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图9：的确凉 图10：喇叭裤

（4）80、90年代：花衬衫，红裙子，比基尼

As China’s economy opened up to the world, Western culture as well as Hong Kong and Taiwan

fashion swarmed into the mainland, bringing the latest trends to eager youths. This period

is considered as the spring of the development of Chinese clothing and the beginning of

the renaissance of more contemporary Chinese fashion.

随着中国经济不断对外开放，西方文化和港台时尚迅速进入内地，向年青一代传递着最新的潮流

信息。这个时期也被认为是中国服饰发展的春天与中国人时尚观念复苏的真正开始。

Women dress changed the fastest in the 90s. People dress from a focus on the price and

style become more focus on brand. Chinese women, they have started a more independent

identity appeared in the important social and business occasions.

90年代是女性服装变化最快的年代。人们的着装意识也从注重价格和款式变得更加注重品牌。

中国女性，她们开始以更独立的身份出现在重要的社交及商务场合。

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图11：花衬衫 图12：红裙子

图13：牛仔裤 图14：比基尼

Piople of all walks of life

图15：健美裤 图16：蛤蟆镜

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图17：蝙蝠衫 图18：文化衫

（5）90年代至今：百花齐放

Since the 1990s, the clothing style changed fast. Sometimes a trend hadn’t even formed

before the colthing was alredy outdated. People dressed themselves as distinctively as

they could. It got to the point that the most embarrassing thing was to be seen wearing

the same clothes as another.

90年代之后是服装变化最快的年代，一种潮流还没有形成，就面临着过时的尴尬。人们穿衣服

追求个性，最尴尬的事莫过于“撞衫”。

The 21st century： Personality is kingcraft

All kinds of mainstream non-mainstream Debut. The main role of the garment longer keep

out the cold, but a manifestation of the personality charm.

各种主流、非主流登场，服装的主要作用已经不在是御寒，而是一种个性魅力的体现。

Miniskirts, slip dresses, bare midriffs, backless costumes, low-cut jeans, tube tops,

bellybands and hohemian skirts超短裙、吊带、露脐装、露背装、低腰裤、裹胸、肚兜、波西米

亚裙

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图19：中式服装

图20：韩式嘻哈

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图21：波希米亚风

图22：混搭

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图23：夸张表现主义服饰 图24：连体裤

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