2024年4月6日发(作者：百度输入法华为版2021最新版)

聚焦服饰文化 17

Traditional Dress Around the World

世界各地的传统服饰

扫码听读

文/艾丽丝·帕克 译/黄媛

By Alice Park

rom the Indian sari, to the Vietnam-

ese conical hat, the world is full

of varieties of traditional dress. While

some are immersed in history and spe-

cific to the country’s culture, and others

represent circumstance or status, they

are almost always eye-catching.

2

Given that learning about traditional

garb gains insights into the country

they’re part of, we’ve rounded up a few

items to give you a lowdown

1

on tradi-

tional dress around the world.

The Sari, India

3

Ostensibly the simplest item of cloth-

ing possible—a single length of fabric, up

to nine metres long—the sari is also one

of the world’s most versatile and stylish

garments, which can be draped in dozens

of different ways. The sari spans all of In-

dian society, from simple cotton versions

that are woven in the street throughout the

villages of India to extremely glamorous

contemporary styles that grace the cat-

walk

2

during India Fashion Week.

F

从

印度的纱丽到越南的斗

笠，这世上的传统服饰

种类繁多。一些服饰受到了历

史的浸润，为特定国家文化所

特有，还有一些是环境或地位

的象征，但不变的是，它们几

乎总是光彩夺目的。

2

鉴于了解传统服饰有助于

了解其所在的国家，我们收集

了一些单品，让您一览世界各

地传统服饰之风采。

印度纱丽

3

乍一看，纱丽是最为简单

的服饰——不过是一块可长达

九米的布料而已——但它也是

世上最百搭、最时尚的服饰之

一，可以用数十种不同的方式

披在身上。整个印度社会各阶

层妇女都穿纱丽，既有印度各

村街边织造的简单朴素的棉质

纱丽，也有印度时装周T台展

示的极尽华丽的现代纱丽。

1 (the) lowdown真相，实情；重要信息。 2 catwalk供时装秀场模特儿表演的T形台。

英语世界 2022·11

18 聚焦服饰文化

Kilts, Scotland

4

From Braveheart to Strictly Come

Dancing, the kilt has been used to rep-

resent all things Scottish. Visit any Scot-

tish Highland Games, and you’ll see that

kilt-wearing traditions are alive and well,

from the immaculately

3

dressed competi-

tive dancers to the pipe

4

players in for-

mal attire and, most impressively of all,

the participants in the “heavy events”—

for you cannot toss a caber

5

properly un-

less wearing a kilt.

Tracht, Southern Germany and Aus-

tria

5

Tracht—that’s lederhosen for men

and dirndls

6

for women—is the tradi-

tional dress across southern Germany

and Austria. There are many variations

on the basic styles depending on the

area and on fashion, from the pom-pom

hats of the Black Forest

7

(bollenhut) to

thoroughly modern versions.

Balinese temple dress, Indonesia

6

Anyone visiting a Balinese temple in

苏格兰短裙

4

从电影《勇敢的心》到综艺

《舞动奇迹》，苏格兰短裙一直被

视为当地的象征。参观任何一场

苏格兰高地运动会，您都会发现，

穿着苏格兰短裙的传统完好地延

续至今：无论是衣着整洁的竞

技舞者，还是身着盛装的风笛

手，都穿苏格兰短裙。给人印

象最深刻的，非参加“重量级”

抛杆赛的选手们莫属——除非

穿上苏格兰短裙，否则这项运

动的苏格兰特色就得大打折扣。

德国南部和奥地利的日耳曼民

族服装

5

说到德国南部和奥地利的

日耳曼民族服装，男装要数皮

短裤，女装则为紧腰阔摆连衣

裙。根据地区和时尚的不同，

基本款式亦有诸多变化，从德

国黑林山的大绒球帽到现代感

十足的款式，不一而足。

印度尼西亚巴厘岛寺庙礼服

6

任何来印度尼西亚巴厘岛

3 immaculately特别整洁地；完美地。 4 pipe此处指bagpipe（风笛）。 5 toss a caber

指苏格兰运动会传统项目抛杆赛（caber toss）。参赛者必须身着短裙（kilt），抛掷

一根被称作caber的巨大木杆。标准杆长为19英尺6英寸（约5.94米），重175磅

（约79公斤）。木杆一头较粗，一头较细，参赛者抓住细端将木杆抛出，让粗端着

地。比赛最终结果不仅看谁掷得远，更要看木杆落地后的垂直程度。同一木杆，穿上

kilt来抛为caber，身着便服抛则只能叫log。故本句末尾不宜按照字面意思理解为“不

穿kilt就没法儿好好地投掷木桩”，而应理解为“不穿上kilt，这苏格兰抛杆赛就总

归是少了些什么”。 6 dirndl（见于德国南部一些地区和奥地利的）紧身阔摆连衣裙。

7德国西南部巴登-符腾堡州的山区。此地古树参天，连绵起伏，遮天蔽日，故而得名。

2022·11 英语世界

聚焦服饰文化 19

Indonesia should at least wear two basic

elements of Balinese traditional dress, a

sash (selendang) and a sarong-style skirt

known as a kain. However, the full Ba-

linese outfit for women, which also in-

cludes the kebaya blouse, is an elaborate

ensemble worn for temple festivals that

shows off Bali’s gorgeous textiles, such

as ikat

8

weaving and batik, to the full.

Maasai beadwork, Kenya

7

One of the smaller ethnic groups

in Kenya, but one of the most recogni-

sable, the Maasai’s reputation worldwide

belies its size, no small part thanks to

their stunning attire: brilliant red cloth,

extraordinarily intricate beadwork and—

for young men—long, ochre

9

-dyed hair.

The beadwork in particular contains

much meaning, a bride’s collar being the

pinnacle of Maasai craftsmanship.

Herero women, Namibia

8

The traditional dress of the Herero

women in Namibia is an adaptation of

Victorian dress, as worn by the Ger-

man colonists they fought in a bloody

conflict at the start of the twentieth

century, and now retained as a proud

part of Herero identity. The silhouette

is distinctive: a full, floor-length skirt,

fitted bodice with puffed sleeve, with a

寺庙观光的香客，应至少穿

戴巴厘岛传统服装中的两个基

本单品：一条腰带（当地人称

selendang

）和一条当地人称为

kain

的纱笼裙。巴厘岛女性为

寺庙节日精心备制的全套礼

服，包括可峇雅衬衫，充分展

示了巴厘岛华丽的纺织工艺，

如纱线扎染和蜡染技艺。

肯尼亚马萨伊珠饰

7

马萨伊族虽是肯尼亚较小

的民族之一，却也是最为知名

的民族之一。尽管人口不多，

却能在世界上获得广泛声誉，

这在很大程度上要归功于他们

绝美的装束：鲜艳的红色布料、

巧夺天工的珠饰，以及年轻男

子染成赭红色的长发。珠饰的

内涵尤其丰富。新娘的项圈是

马萨伊工艺的巅峰之作。

纳米比亚赫雷罗族女性服饰

8

纳米比亚赫雷罗女性的传

统裙装源自维多利亚时代的裙

装。20世纪初，德国殖民者

就穿着这种衣服——当时，赫

雷罗族人为反抗殖民者而浴血

奋战。如今，这种服饰作为赫

雷罗身份令人自豪的遗产留存

下来。其造型特色鲜明：一袭

及地长裙，上衣贴合身线，袖

8 ikat扎染；扎染布。扎染古称绞缬，是指在染色前，通过对布料进行捆绑、缝制、

折叠、缠绕、挤压等方式让染料不能对这些地方上色。 9 ochre赭红色。

英语世界 2022·11

20 聚焦服饰文化

magnificent horn-shaped hat, the shape

of cattle horns, completing the look.

Sámi clothing, Lapland

9

The northernmost reaches of Nor-

way, Sweden and Finland, and the Kola

peninsula of northwest Russia, are

home to the Sámi, who are among the

oldest peoples in Europe.

10

There are variations in costume

throughout the region, though the main

item is the kolt (or gákti in northern

Sámi), a tunic or dress. The simple bright

colours of blue, red, yellow and green

always feature and reindeer skin and fur

is used for belts, boots and gloves.

Gho, Bhutan

11

In Bhutan, a tiny Himalayan king-

dom tucked between China and India,

it’s obligatory for everyone to wear

the national dress. For men this means

the gho, a knee-length gown tied at the

waist by a belt called a keram.

12

For formal occasions a silk scarf, a

kabney, is added to the ensemble, the

colour of which depends on the wear-

er’s status. For the women, traditional

dress is typically an ankle-length dress

called a kira, and the equivalent scarf is

called a rachu.

子蓬松，再配上一顶华丽的牛

角形帽子，造型便更加完美。

拉普兰地区萨米族服装

9

萨米族是欧洲最古老的民

族之一，挪威、瑞典和芬兰的

最北端和俄罗斯西北部的科拉

半岛是萨米人的家园。

10

整个地区的服装各有差异，

但主要服装是

kolt

（北萨米语

称之为

gákti

），这是一种长罩衣

或连衣裙式的服装。这种服装

以蓝、红、黄、绿这些简单明

快的颜色为主。腰带、靴子和

手套则由驯鹿的皮毛制作而成。

不丹果袍

11

在喜马拉雅山脚、中国和

印度两国之间坐落着一个迷你

王国——不丹，这里人人都必

须穿着民族服装。男性身着及

膝果袍，用一种叫作

keram

的

带子束于腰间。

12

在正式场合，男子还会加

披一件丝质披肩，当地人称之

为

kabney

，其颜色取决于佩

戴者的身份。女性的传统服装

通常是一条长及脚踝的裙子，

称为

kira

，女性的披肩则称为

rachu

。

Conical hats, Vietnam

越南斗笠

13

Vietnam is home to an extraordi-

nary wealth of clothing traditions, with

13

越南的服饰传统极其丰

the most elaborate outfits found in the

富，最为精致的服饰来自北方，

2022·11 英语世界

聚焦服饰文化 21

north, such as red brocades of the Flow-

er Hmong people and the decorated

headdresses of the Red Dao.

14

However, the most recognisably

Vietnamese item is the conical hat, or

non la, an essential accessory through-

out the country. The version available in

Hué

10

, non bai tho, has lines of poetry

written into the brim, only visible when

you hold it up to the light.

Flamenco dresses, Andalucía, Spain

15

Traje de flamenco or traje de gitana

are the flamboyant dresses that finish in

a cascade of ruffles (volantes), which

are synonymous with the flamenco

dancers of southern Spain.

11

16

Seville’s Feria de Abril

is the best

time to see them worn by local women.

However, the ultimate flamenco dress is

the bata de cola, the long-tailed version

worn for the style of dance of the same

name, an intricate and beautiful dance

where the dancer controls the tail so that

it swishes and flicks as if it has a life of

its own.

The ten-gallon Stetson

12

, Texas, USA

17

Yee ha! Enormous Stetson, boots…

如花苗族人的红色织锦和红头

瑶族人的头饰。

14

然而，越南最知名的饰品

要数斗笠了，这是越南各地必

不可少的配饰。古都顺化的诗

篇斗笠流传至今，举起斗笠对

着阳光一照，帽檐里的诗句便

显现出来。

西班牙安达卢西亚地区的弗拉

门戈舞裙

15

华丽的弗拉门戈舞裙（又

称吉卜赛舞裙）的裙尾有着层

叠的荷叶边，这种舞裙是西班

牙南部弗拉门戈舞者的代名词。

16

塞维利亚的四月春会是欣

赏当地女性穿着弗拉门戈舞裙

的最佳时机。然而，弗拉门戈

舞裙的终极版本是跳长尾舞时

穿的长尾舞裙。复杂而优美的

舞蹈中，舞者控制着裙尾，使

它轻快地嗖嗖甩动，仿佛有了

自己的生命。

美国得克萨斯州的斯特森牛仔

帽

17

咿哈！大大的斯特森牛仔

10越南中部城市。 11塞维利亚一年一度的欢庆活动，又称“塞维利亚四月节”。

12约翰·B.斯特森（John B. Stetson）在1865年美国内战期间设计了第一顶牛仔帽。

因其标志性设计，Stetson Hat也泛指西部牛仔帽。此处ten

-

gallon Stetson 并非字面意

义上的“能装十加仑（45.5升）水的帽子”。“十加仑”这一夸张的说法，主要来

源有二：一说源自斯特森牛仔帽的广告海报，上面绘着一位牛仔，正用本款牛仔帽

给马儿喂水（实际上该帽盛水量大约只有3夸脱，即3.42升）；一说是由于戴上这

款牛仔帽后，人顿时变得

tan galán

（西班牙语，意为very gallant英姿飒爽），与ten

-

gallon颇为近似，得克萨斯州因与墨西哥（说西班牙语）毗邻，故而以讹传讹。

英语世界 2022·11

22 聚焦服饰文化

rhinestones

13

? The southern cowboy’s

work wear has been glammed up

14

a bit,

thanks to the stars of both kinds of mu-

sic

15

, but the hat remains a true Ameri-

can icon. John B. Stetson was in fact

from Philadelphia

16

, and he started his

company there in 1865, but it’s always

been a symbol of cowboy country, and

in Texas the ten-gallon Stetson is the

only style to be seen in.

Sardinian traditional dress, Italy

18

Closer to North Africa than main-

land Italy, Sardinia’s mixed history

is evident in its traditional dress, ele-

ments of which have strong Spanish

and Moorish influences. Though each

village has its own style, there are com-

mon features: a veil, bonnet or shawl,

long pleated skirts and richly embroi-

dered blouses. Some of the most spec-

tacular are from the province of Nuoro.

帽、靴子……莱茵石牛仔？多

亏了乡村音乐和西部音乐的明

星们，南方牛仔们的工装也变

得考究起来，但牛仔帽仍然是

真正的美国标志。约翰·

B

.斯

特森的事业从费城起步，1865

年，他在那里创办了自己的制

帽公司，时至今日仍是牛仔世

界的象征。在得克萨斯州，牛

仔帽是唯一能看到的帽子款

式。

意大利撒丁岛传统服饰

18

从距离上看，撒丁岛离意

大利本土较远，而离北非更近，

其复杂的历史在传统服饰上得

以体现，服饰元素受到了西班

牙人和摩尔人的强烈影响。虽

然每个村庄的服饰都各具风

格，但有一些共同的特点，如

面纱、女帽、披肩、百褶长裙

和华丽的绣花上衣。其中一些

最令人惊叹的服饰来自努奥罗

省。

13 1975年，美国乡村歌手格伦·坎贝尔（Glen Campbell）发行的单曲“莱茵石牛仔”

（Rhinestone Cowboy）成为热门歌曲，坎贝尔也因此被称为“莱茵石牛仔”。 14 glam

sb/sth up让……漂亮起来。 15 both kinds of music 指与牛仔风格紧密相连的乡村音

乐（Country Music）和西部音乐（Western Music）。二者原是两种不同类型的音乐，

分别流行于美国东南部和西南部地区。20世纪三四十年代时，受好莱坞西部片的影响，

从20年代就出现的牛仔歌曲（Singing Cowboys，也称西部歌曲）突然流行，经常和

乡村歌曲在同一电台播出，并称为country & western music，后来西部音乐也渐渐融

入乡村音乐的体系中，成为乡村音乐的一个流派。 16 斯特森实际出生于新泽西州

的奥兰治，并非宾夕法尼亚州的费城，故此处宜理解为他的事业从费城起步。

2022·11 英语世界

聚焦服饰文化 23

The keffiyeh, shemagh or ghutrah, the

Middle East

19

The scarf headdress worn by men

across the Middle East comes in many

variations of colour, style and name. It’s

known as shemagh in Jordan and the

ghutrah Saudi Arabia, where it is nor-

mally either white or red and white, and

held in place by the agal, a black band.

Coiffe, Brittany, France

20

A coiffe is an intricate lace head-

dress worn as part of the folk costumes

of Brittany, France, though now only

seen for local festivals, or pardons. The

most striking is the bigouden coiffe,

from the area around Pont L’Abbé, a

starched lace cylinder that rises to up to

an astonishing height of 30–40cm.

Menswear, Todos Santos Cuchumatán,

Guatemala

21

Maya textiles are evident through-

out the Guatemalan Highlands, nowhere

more so than Todos Santos Cuchuma-

tán, where local traditions are still wide-

ly observed. Mam is the first language,

not Spanish, and the clothing for men in

particular is brilliantly distinctive red-

and-white striped trousers, black wool-

len breeches, embroidered shirts and

straw hats.

■

中东阿拉伯头巾

19

中东各地男子佩戴的头巾

颜色不一、款式多样、名称

各异。这种头巾在约旦被称为

shemagh

，在沙特阿拉伯被称

为

ghutrah

，颜色通常为白色

或红白相间，用黑绳头箍加以

固定。

法国布列塔尼大区的女式头巾

20

这款头巾是一种复杂的蕾

丝头饰，为法国布列塔尼民间

服装的组成部分，但现在只有

在当地的节日或特赦日才能看

到。最引人注目的是来自蓬拉

贝小镇的比古丹头巾：蕾丝上

过浆后，可制成30至40厘米

高的圆柱，令人啧啧称奇。

危地马拉托多斯桑托斯库丘马

坦小城的男装

21

玛雅纺织品在整个危地马

拉高地都随处可见，最有代表

性的莫过于托多斯桑托斯库丘

马坦小城，在那里，地方传统

仍然得到广泛遵守。当地的母

语为马姆语，而非西班牙语，

男性的服装是非常独特的红白

条纹长裤、黑色羊毛马裤、刺

绣衬衫和草帽。

□

（译者为“《英语世界》杯”

翻译大赛获奖者）

英语世界 2022·11