2024年4月23日发(作者：)

一艘快艇模型制作

快艇

模型

是赛艇最纯净的形式。 他们很少或没有做作的规模，而是是一个完全功能对象，

该函数存在的最终速度。

快艇模型，当减小到其本质，是举行了简单的棍子夫妇一起三盒。 然而，他们似乎是一条

船，

船模

型

制作

一些愿意尝试。 这是否是因为他们不上诉从美学的角度，或者是因为他们被

认为是太难以建立，我不能说。

这份简短的文章是不是如何

设计

一个快艇模型，或者如何建立一个具体的船。 这是一个在

技术

和材料我用它来建立我的支腿的概述。 希望它会激励你试试看！

The Kit

I start off with a minimal kit of parts cut from thin ply. I mark out one of the tub sides on a sheet of

ply, then cut this out. Using this as a template, I double-side glue it to another piece of ply then cut

out the second tub side. Repeat for the sponson templates.

该工具包

我开始了与来自薄层切割部件最小的套件。 我标记出的层上表中的一个浴缸边，然后把它

砍下来。 作为一个模板，我双面胶水，另一股则削减了第二个浴缸方片。 为sponson重

复模板。

A kit of parts to make a 12 cell, 700BB-powered outrigger.

I've cut lightening holes in the balsa doublers for the tub sides.

Lining Up

In order for the sponsons and the tub to line up correctly when assembled, the holes for the carbon

sponson booms must be drilled accurately. This is a task for a pillar drill. If you want to do this by

hand, then good luck!

试剂盒的零件，使12个细胞，700BB供电支腿。

我剪了减轻在浴缸两侧的轻木倍增器漏洞。

排队

为了使sponsons和浴缸排队正确装配时，为碳sponson繁荣钻的孔必须准确。 这是一

个支柱演习任务。 如果你想用手做了，那么祝你好运！

Sponson templates and tub sides double-side taped together for drilling.

Sponson模板和浴缸边双面钻孔一起录音。

With the tub sides and sponson profiles double-side taped together along their respective datum

lines, drill the holes using a sharpened piece of brass tube mounted in a pillar drill.

随着浴缸边和录音一道沿着各自的基准线sponson概况双面，钻洞用削尖的黄铜管件安装

在支柱演习。

Drilling the sponson templates and tub sides to accept the sponson booms.

Making the tub

With the holes drilled, carefully peel apart the tub sides and sponson profiles. Sand the insides of

the tub sides with medium-grade abrasive paper to remove both the plywood release agent and any

glue residue from the double-side tape. Coat each balsa doubler in turn with medium-thick cyano

superglue and glue to its respective tub side, wiping away any excess. When the cyano has cured,

carefully sand flush and square. Return the tub sides to the pillar drill and punch out the balsa over

the holes in the ply.

Using your engineer's square, carefully transfer and mark the location of each of the bulkheads on

the balsa lining. Take each bulkhead in turn and cyano superglue to the inside of one of the tub

sides, using the engineer's square to ensure each is glued perpendicular to the tub side. Add the

1/16th" ply transom in the same way. Repeat the process on the other tub side:

钻sponson模板和浴缸边接受sponson繁荣。

使浴缸

随着孔钻，小心剥离，除了浴缸边和sponson型材。 沙与中档砂纸浴缸两侧的内脏都去

除胶合板脱模剂和任何来自双面胶带胶水残留物。 外套每个中等厚氰基强力胶和胶其各自

的浴缸侧面转向巴尔萨倍，擦去多余的。 当氰基已治愈，仔细冲洗砂和方形。 返回浴缸两

侧的支柱和打孔钻了多年来在轻木层孔。

使用您的工程师广场，仔细转移，标志着轻木衬对舱壁的每一个位置。 每个转弯，采取强

力胶氰基舱壁到双方的一个浴缸内，用工程师的广场，以确保每个被粘在浴缸边垂直。 添

加1/16th“以同样的方式重复铺设横梁上的其他浴缸边的过程。：

Glueing the bulkheads using an engineer's square, cyano and kicker.

粘合用工程师的舱壁广场，氰基和踢球。

All bulkheads (except for motor mount) now in..

所有舱壁（除电机安装）现在英寸

Both sides of the tub joined together.

Take a length of 1/4" balsa triangle section and cut a selection of short lengths suitable for gluing

into the corners of each bulkhead as a fillet piece. Glue these with thin or medium cyano and trim

with the razor saw.

双方的浴缸结合在一起。

取1 / 4“巴尔沙三角形和切段长度为一到每个角落里脊肉一块舱壁上胶长度选择合适的短。

薄或中等氰胶这些和修剪剃刀看到的。

Balsa fillets for each bulkhead.

With the tub sides and bulkheads glued together, cut a block of pink foam to fit into the nose of the

tub. It needs to be a good fit, not too tight, such that it forces the tub sides apart, nor too loose so

the tub sides are drawn together, but a snug, sliding fit that does not distort the tub. Glue the block

in place with either five minute epoxy, or foam-safe cyano. When the glue has cured, fire up your

small hwc bow and trim the foam nose-piece flush.

巴尔沙鱼片每个舱壁。

随着浴缸边和舱壁粘在一起，切粉红色泡沫块，以适应进入浴缸鼻子。 它需要一个不错的

选择，不要太紧张，这样，它迫使双方在浴缸外，也不能太松，因此浴缸两侧画在一起，而

是一个舒适，滑动不适合扭曲浴缸。 在与胶或环氧树脂五分钟，或泡沫安全氰基座。 当胶

水已治愈，火了你的小hwc弓和修剪泡沫鼻片冲洗。

Pink foam nose section, glued with 5 minute epoxy.

粉红色的泡沫机头部分，用5分钟环氧树脂粘合。

Pink foam nose section trimmed with hot wire, needs sanding.

Take your sanding block and sand the top and bottom of the tub to flush off the bulkhead edges,

the balsa fillets and the foam undercut on the nose piece. Be careful not to snag the edges of the

bulkheads when sanding.

NOTE: When sanding any part of the boat, be extremely careful to keep all edges as sharp as

possible, unless noted otherwise.

粉红色的泡沫机头部分用热丝修剪，需要打磨。

把你的砂块，砂的顶部和浴缸冲洗过的舱壁边缘的底部，轻木和泡沫削弱鱼片鼻子上一块。

要小心，不要阻拦舱壁的边缘时，打磨。

注意：当任何船打磨的一部分，是非常小心，尽可能保持锋利的边缘，除非另有说明。

Deck with hatches marked out and scored, and tub floor.

Cut a piece of 32nd/0.6mm ply to size for the tub floor, leaving it oversize by a few mm on the

long edges and transom, and oversize by 5-6mm where it curves upwards over the foam

nose-piece. It is vital that you place the tub on a truly flat surface when gluing the floor, as it is

very easy to introduce a warp at this point. With the tub positioned over the floor, run thin cyano

into the join followed with a quick squirt of kicker. Glue up to the the most forward bulkhead.

甲板舱口出来，并取得显着，地板和浴缸。

切下一块来的32nd/0.6mm层楼面面积的浴缸，任由一个超大的长边和横梁几毫米，和

特大型5 - 6mm的地方曲线的泡沫鼻子件以上。 至关重要的是，你放在平坦的表面，当

一个真正的胶合地板的浴缸，因为它是非常容易引入在这一点上的偏差。 随着在地板上放

置的浴缸，跑进参加带有快速起脚之后薄喷氰基。 胶到最前沿舱壁。

Gluing the floor with thin cyano.

Ready some strips of masking tape then mix up some epoxy (don't use foam-safe cyano here).

Peel back the tub floor from the foam nose-piece and apply a coat of epoxy with a spreader made

from a scrap of ply or balsa. Hold the tub floor to the foam with strips of masking tape. When

fully cured, use your razor plan to trim the excess away, finishing with the sanding block. The

overlap on the nose should be trimmed with the large engineer's square, leaving a small overlap

that can be feathered by sanding.

Cut strips of 1/4" balsa triangle section and glue into the bottom of the tub where the sides meet

the floor. I like to use the mitre block to make the corners mitre together. This is not necessary for

strength, I do it purely for the sake of neatness. Repeat this process where the deck will meet the

sides, leaving these fillets slightly proud of the tub and sanding back flush when the glue has

dried.

粘合薄氰基发言。

准备一段胶带再拌入一些环氧树脂（不使用泡沫安全氰基这里）一些带。 剥离后的泡沫从

鼻子件浴缸地板，适用于从股或轻木废料做了吊具的环氧树脂涂层。 保持地板到浴缸与胶

带带泡沫。 当完全固化后，用你的剃刀计划削减多余的了，与砂块整理。 重叠的，应与大

工程师广场修整鼻子，留下一小部分重叠，可以通过打磨羽毛。

1 / 4“巴尔萨三角部分切条和胶水把那里的浴缸底部的两侧满足发言。我喜欢用斜切角块，

使迈特在一起。这不是必要的力量，我这样做纯粹对于整洁的缘故。重复此过程，其中会遇

到的甲板两侧，使得这些鱼片稍稍浴缸骄傲和砂光反冲洗时，胶水干。

Adding balsa fillets to strengthen where the floor and sides meet.

Cut another piece of ply, oversized per the tub floor, for the deck. Repeat the gluing process of

cyano up to the bulkhead behind the foam, finishing with epoxy. Trim and sand the excess as

before. Cyano glue a piece of scrap 32nd/06mm ply over the transom, trim and sand flush with the

sides.

Some designs of outrigger I've seen don't have a deck as such. All my designs always have decks

with hatch openings as adding a deck vastly increases the torsional rigidity of the boat and gives

extra area for taping the hatches which helps keep the inside of the boat dry.

The positions for the hatch openings can be determined in advance and marked then scored on the

deck before the deck is glued to the boat, or you can glue the deck on and then identify by feel

through the ply deck where the bulkheads are and mark out hatches to suit.

Decide the extent of your hatch openings and mark using square and rule. As a guide, leave

10mm either side of a bulkhead and 15mm off the tub sides to give plenty of tape-down area

for the hatches. Use a hole stencil to mark radii in the corners of each hatch opening, then cut

out using your craft knife. Roughly cut across each corner, leaving enough material behind to

sand a neat radius. To do this, take a piece of abrasive paper and wrap around a piece of

8-10mm dowel. Finish by sanding the edges of each opening to remove splinters.

添加巴尔沙鱼片，以加强那里的地板和侧面满足。

再降的层块，每楼层的浴缸超大的甲板。 重复氰基胶合处理多达泡沫背后的舱壁，与环氧

整理。 修剪和沙子像以前一样多。 氰基胶水一块废弃32nd/06mm在横梁层，修剪和砂

两侧平齐。

支腿一些我见过的设计并没有因为这样的甲板。 所有我的设计总是与添加甲板大大增加船

的抗扭刚度，并给出录音舱口这有助于保持船的干额外的面积内舱口甲板。

在舱口的位置可以事先确定，标志着然后在甲板上取得了前甲板粘在船上，或者你可以在甲

板上胶，然后确定通过层甲板的感受那里的舱壁和标记出舱口，以适应。

决定你的舱口和使用方和规则标记的程度。 作为一个指南，给10mm的任一舱壁和关闭

的浴缸，让双方15毫米的磁带式地区大量的舱口侧。 使用一个洞模具，以纪念在每个舱

口的角落里，半径，然后切出使用工艺刀。 大约贯穿每个角落，留下一个整洁的砂半径足

够的材料。 要做到这一点，需要大约8 - 10mm的木钉，一块砂纸和包装件。 完成了打

磨每个开口边缘消除碎片。

The almost finished tub, with the deck added and the hatches cut out.

Return the almost finished tub to the pillar drill. Using your brass tube bit, core through the foam

nose-piece. Set the tub aside for the moment and

The Front Sponsons

Cut two blanks from a sheet of pink foam. Sand the wire-cut faces to remove the "stringers", then

mark a datum line parallel from one face on each blank.

Coat one face of each sponson profile in turn and glue to its respective blank. When cured, core

out the sponson boom holes on the pillar drill. Cut two lengths of brass tube long enough to thread

through both blanks, thus holding them together for the next operation, which is to hwc around the

sponson profile. Don't allow the hot wire to run off at the ends of each run; instead, as the wire

nears the end of a cut, pull it up and away sharply into the waste. The ridges left can be sanded

flush afterward.

几乎完成了浴缸，与甲板添加和切出舱口。

返回基本完成浴缸的支柱演练。 使用您的黄铜管位，通过泡沫鼻片的核心。 将浴缸预留时

刻，转向...

该阵线Sponsons

从切两片粉红色泡沫空白。 砂线切割面删除“特约”，然后标记从一个空白的脸在每个基准

线平行。

外套一面对挨个和胶水其各自的空白sponson轮廓。 固化后，指出了在柱子上的洞钻

sponson繁荣的核心。 切两足够长的铜管坯都通过螺纹长度，从而把它们穿在一起的下一

个操作，这是hwc围绕sponson轮廓。 不要让热线运行在每次运行的两头切掉，而是作

为导线接近一个切底，拉了起来，消失在废物急剧下降。 脊左可打磨后冲洗。

Sponson templates and foam blocks.

Carefully sand the two blanks together to remove the foam undercut, then separate. Glue, using

foam-safe cyano, the bottom sheet, then the top sheet, feathering the nose of each as necessary.

Cut a temporary cutter guide from 1/16th ply to give the desired anti-trip angles on each sponson.

When you have hwc the anti-trips, sand and sheet over, then cut the chamfer on the outside edge

of sponson. Sand and sheet over the bevel. Finally, sand the transom and cyano glue a ply capping

piece in place, sanding the excess flush with the sides.

Sponson templates and foam blocks.

仔细沙两个空白，共同消除泡沫削弱，然后分开。 胶水，用泡沫安全氰基，底表，然后面

层，羽化每个必要的鼻子。 从1/16th切刀具引导层临时给每个sponson所需的反角行程。

当你有hwc反人次，沙子和片以上，然后切对sponson外边缘倒角。 在沙锥和板材。 最

后，沙的横梁和氰基胶水层覆盖在一块地方，与双方打磨多余的冲洗。

Templates glued to blocks, keyed with brass tubes.

粘块模板，使用铜管键入

Initial profile hwc to shape, trimmed to accept balsa leading edge.

初始配置文件hwc造型，修剪接受巴尔沙领先的优势

Balsa leading edges sanded flush.

巴尔沙前缘打磨冲洗

Ply sheeting to sponson tops.

层布到sponson上衣

Ply sheeting to planing surfaces.

要刨面层薄膜

Anti-trip angles cut and sanded.

防切割和打磨角度行程

Completely sheeted, just requires brass tubes to be epoxied in.

完全铺好，只是需要铜管被epoxied英寸

Rear sponsons; same technique as the fronts, just smaller.

后方sponsons;作为各条战线同样的技术，只是规模较小

Tub, front and rear sponsons.

浴缸，前方和后方sponsons

The finished hull, with carbon booms, brass tube mounts and bodyclips retaining sponsons.

368 grams total weight at this point, target weight: 1750 grams ready-to-race.

完成的船体，与碳繁荣，黄铜管坐骑和bodyclips保留sponsons。

三百六十八克此时的总重量，目标重量：一千七百五十克现成的比赛。

Front on. 阵线

Rear sponsons cyano glued to tub.

The last job, a "belt and braces" measure if you like, is to dribble a line of thin cyano along each

seam. When this is dry, sand flush.

后方sponsons氰基粘浴缸。

最后一个工作，一个“带和大括号”措施，如果你喜欢，是每个运球沿煤层薄氰基线。 当这

是干的，沙子冲洗

Finishing

To take the boat to a point where it can be run, there is a list of additional tasks to be completed.

The first task is to install the motor mount and drive system. Then, install the rudder and steering

servo. See the article on radio control systems for some tips. If you're going to race the boat you

will need to install an isolation loop.

When you have finished all the tasks that require gluing to the hull, you can go ahead and seal the

boat using your preferred sealing product. I always used to use epoxy laminating resin thinned

with isopropyl alchohol. While this does a good job of sealing the wood, it needs a fair bit of work

when cured to get an acceptable surface for painting.

For this boat, I decided to try "G4 Damp Seal" which I purchased (with a some G4 thinner) from

CFS Fibreglass Supplies.

Update

Here are some pictures of the finished boat, complete with wire drive, motor etc.

精加工

采取船到了一个它可以运行来看，有一个额外的任务列表来完成。 第一项任务是安装在电

机安装和驱动系统。 然后，安装伺服舵和方向盘。 上看到的一些小窍门无线电控制系统的

文章。 如果你要去参加比赛的船你将需要安装一个隔离回路。

当您完成所有的任务，需要在船体上胶，你可以继续使用您的密封船密封的首选产品。 我

总是习惯用环氧层压树脂，异丙醇变薄。 虽然这一个密封的木材好，它需要一个公平的位

工作时治愈得到一个可接受的表面涂装。

对于这样的船，我决定尝试“四国集团湿印”，我中心购买玻璃纤维制品（四国集团与一些稀

释剂）。

更新

这里有一些船的成品图片，用线驱动器，电机等完成

Marking Out

Marking out should be done lightly to allow easy removal of any lines afterward. Use a pencil,

steel rulers and an engineers' square, and take the time to get your marking out accurate - any

mistakes here will be very difficult to make good later on.

划线

做标记时，应当允许轻轻容易的清除所有行之后。 使用铅笔，尺子和一钢工程师的广场，

花时间让您的标示出准确的 - 任何错误，这里将是非常困难的，好以后

Mark datum lines on the tub floor and transom.

The first job is to mark a longitudinal centreline datum from just forward of the motor mount to

the transom. If you elect to offset the drive in order to counteract propeller torque effects, then

mark this offset drive line next. Mark the transom with a driveline datum using an engineers'

square. Remove the original centreline datum after you have marked an offset datum, to avoid

confusion later. Fine-grade sandpaper or dry wet-and-dry paper can be used to scrub out unwanted

lines.

在浴缸地板横梁马克基准线。

第一份工作是为纪念从刚刚电机向前纵向中心线为基准装入横梁。 如果您选择的驱动器，

以便抵消抵消桨扭矩的效果，然后这个偏移车道标志线旁。 马克用传动系统使用的工程师'

广场基准横梁。 删除原始数据后，你有中心线的偏移标记数据，以避免混乱之后。 细砂纸

或干的湿和干纸可以用来擦洗掉不需要的行。

Triangular fillet piece to allow motor to sit lower. Lowering the motor through the tub floor gets

the weight of the motor as low as possible and reduces the curve on the wiredrive.

Next to the cellpack, the motor is the heaviest component in the boat. To keep this weight as low

as possible, and to reduce the size of, or eliminate the need for, a canopy in the hatch, I drop the

motor through the floor of the tub using by a few millimetres, or enough the accommodate the

cooling coil. This has the added benefit of reducing the curve on the wiredrive.

圆角三角形，使电动机一块坐低。 通过降低电机的浴缸地板获得低电机的重量，尽量减少

对wiredrive曲线。

旁边的cellpack，电机是在船上最大的一个元件。 为了保持这个重量低的可能，以减少大

小，或消除，在舱口盖的需要，我把通过一个几毫米使用浴缸，足以容纳地板电机的冷却线

圈。 这是减少对wiredrive曲线的好处

Opening the fillet piece. Score the two angled lines of the fillet triangle on the inside of the boat,

to allow the fillet halves to hinge open easily.

打开圆角作品。 这两个分数的角度对船内圆角三角形线，让鱼片半到铰链开启容易。

Transom marked with offset datum. On this boat, I'm offsetting the drive by 10mm to the right to

counteract prop effects.

特兰瑟姆标有偏移数据。 在这船上，我抵销了由10毫米驱动器的权利，抵消支撑作用

Drive strut mounting - aluminium angle secured with M4 stainless bolts, washers and stainless

nyloc nuts.

Motor Mount

My personal preference for motor mounts in any type of boat is to spread the weight of the motor

over as much of the hull as possible. In an outrigger, this means I make a motor mount that spans

the width of the tub and is glued to floor and sides, reinforced with triangular balsa fillets. You can

buy some very fancy CNC-machined carbon motor mounts, or you can make a perfectly adequate

mount from scraps of ply.

车道支撑安装 - 铝角固定用M4不锈钢螺栓，垫圈和不锈钢nyloc坚果。

马达座

我的个人喜好电机坐骑是遍布作为船体尽可能电机的重量在任何类型的船。 在一个支腿，

这意味着我做的汽车装载跨越了浴缸的宽度，并粘在地板和侧面，用三角形轻木鱼片加强。

你可以购买一些非常奇特的数控加工碳电机安装，或者你可以从一个完全足够芒的层碎片。

Motor mount bulkhead from 1/16th" plywood faced with 0.6mm plywood.

汽车装载舱壁从1/16th“与0.6mm的胶合板胶合板

Fitting The Wiredrive

I'm using a 0.062" (62thou/1.6mm) wiredrive, which is run out of the hull through a short length

of brass tube. The tube is approximately 2.4mm in diameter, so I cut a slot roughly 2.5mm wide.

Positioning of the slot fore and aft is something you need to guess - you may get it spot on, or you

may need to elongate the slot to suit like I did here.

Fitting the wiredrive should be done simultaneously with gluing the motor mount in place. If you

fix the motor position and angle first, you may end up forcing the wire to run in a less than

optimal curve, which will cause friction and possibly wire breakages. The slot for the wiredrive

should be long enough to allow the wire to float free and assume its natural curve.

我使用的是0.062“（62thou/1.6mm）wiredrive，这是运行的船体通过一个简短的铜管

长度。管子直径约为2.4毫米，所以我切槽大约2.5毫米宽。定位插槽的船头和船尾是你

需要猜测 - 你可以把它点上，或者您可能需要拉长插槽，以满足像我一样在这里。

拟合wiredrive应与粘合电机安装在同时进行。 如果您修复电机的位置和角度首先，你可

能最终迫使线运行在非最佳曲线，这可能会引起摩擦和电线破损少。 为wiredrive插槽应

该足够长的电线，让自由浮动，并承担其自然的曲线

Mark the slot for the wiredrive.

马克为wiredrive插槽。

Cut the wire to the desired length, and mount the drive to the boat, with the strut at the desired

height and angle. Offer up the motor bolted to the motor mount. Feed the wire into the motor

coupling and secure the coupling set screws. Position the motor on its mount in the boat to achieve

a mild curve in the wire, check that the mount is square in the boat with an engineers' square, and

tack into place with thin cyano.

切到所需长度线，并安装在所需的高度和角度的支撑与驱动器的船。 就固定在电机的电机

发售坐骑。 送入电机耦合线和安全的耦合固定螺丝。 其定位在船上安装到实现缓和曲线中

的导线，检查装载电机广场与一工程师方船，并用薄氰基地方的策略。

Elongate the slot if necessary. 如有必要，伸长插槽。

The wire runs through the bottom of the boat in a short length of thin brass tube. This needs to be

shaped to match the curve of the wiredrive, to reduce friction to a minimum. Try the tube on the

wire - when it slides freely up and down the curved wire, the brass tube is ready to be glued into

the boat. Roughen it first to give a good key.

I like to file slots in the brass tube to allow easy lubrication of the wire without removing the wire

from the tube. You can file slots in the tube before or after gluing it into the boat.

该线贯穿在一个薄铜管短船底。 这需要形至匹配wiredrive曲线，减少摩擦到最低限度。

尝试在电线管 - 当它向上和向下滑动自由弯曲的导线，铜管已准备好了船粘。 粗糙它首先

给出很好的关键。

我喜欢不删除的文件从管中的电线槽，让黄铜管的电线容易润滑。 你可以在试管中的文件

之前或之后在船上粘合成槽。

Tack the motor mount in place with thin cyano superglue.

德电机安装在薄氰基强力胶的地方

Brass tube - shape this to match the curve of the wire when mounted in the boat.

铜管 - 形状此相匹配的导线曲线，当安装在船上

Masking tape over the wiredrive slot, prior to gluing the wiredrive in place.

Mask off the slot in the bottom of the tub with masking tape. The wiredrive brass outer tube

should be glued in place using two-part epoxy. I like to mix some microballoons into the epoxy

mixture. Apply the epoxy inside the boat, sealing the slot in the hull and fixing the brass tube in

place. Use disposable gloves when handling epoxy - too much exposure to epoxy glues and resins

can cause dermatitis. To make the epoxy flow smoothly, I give it a quick blast from a hot air gun -

but not too much. Overheating the epoxy can cause bubbles to form. Smooth the edges of the

epoxy with a finger (gloves!).

掩蔽在wiredrive插槽磁带之前，胶合到位wiredrive。

屏蔽掉，在用胶带在浴缸底部的插槽。 该wiredrive黄铜外管处用胶水粘贴在使用两部分

环氧树脂。 我喜欢混入环氧混合物一些微球。 应用环氧船内，密封槽，在船体固定到位铜

管。 使用一次性手套处理环氧树脂 - 环氧树脂过多接触胶水和树脂可引起皮炎。 为了使

环氧树脂畅通，我给它从高炉热风枪快 - 但不是太多。 环氧过热可能导致泡沫形成。 光

滑的环氧树脂用手指的边缘（gloves!）。

The wiredrive brass outer tube should be glued in place using two-part epoxy. I mix some

microballoons into the mixture.

该wiredrive黄铜外管处用胶水粘贴在使用两部分环氧树脂。 余混入一些混合物微球

Wire lubrication slots filed in the brass outer.

Servo Mount

The last thing you need in a fast boat is any slop or play in the steering. This means the steering

servo needs to be securely mounted in the boat. Raid your scraps box for lengths of oak strip and

offcuts of plywood to make a servo mount. Small servos can often be mounted upright in the boat,

bigger servos such as the Hitec HS5625MG (a standard sized, high output metal geared digital

servo) that I'm using here will almost certainly need mounting on the side, unless you are building

a big outrigger. This servo has been waterproofed.

丝润滑槽提出在铜管外。

伺服芒

最后的东西就是你需要的是一个快速艇任何污水或转向发挥。 这意味着转向伺服必须牢固

安装在船上。 突袭你的签名的橡木条的长度和胶合板offcuts框以使伺服坐骑。 小舵机通

常可以直立安装在船上，如更大的伺服荷兰海泰克HS5625MG（一个标准的大小，产量高

的金属齿轮数字伺服），我现在用在这里几乎肯定会需要在侧面安装，除非你正在建设一个

大支腿。 该伺服已被防水。

Servo mount from oak block and 1/16th" plywood.

从奥克芒伺服块和1/16th“胶合板。

Rudder

The strut and rudder mounting brackets used on this boat are made from short lengths of 1/8th"

(3.2mm) aluminium angle, squared off on the milling machine. I'm using a simple flat plate-type

rudder, driven by a side-mounted Hitec HS5625 metal-geared digital servo.伺服贴装伺服

舵

的支撑和方向舵安装在船上使用这个括号是由短长度的八分之一“（三点二毫米）铝角平方

铣床上的小康。我用一个简单的平板式舵，由方推动安装荷兰海泰克HS5625金属齿轮的

数字伺服。

Rudder and mounting bracket, with linkage to be finished.

舵和安装支架，联动完成

Servo mount glued in place in the radio compartment.

The rudder control linkage is made from ball-joints and threaded ends glued to a short length of

3mm carbon rod. The rudder linkage is sealed through the transom using a rubber bellows glued to

a short length of brass tube. Establish where the linkage centreline is on the boat, then drill the

hole for the bellows in the transom. Bear in mind that the linkage will move sideways as the

rudder rotates, so you may want to position the bellows off-centre a little to prevent binding at full

rudder deflection.

伺服芒粘在无线电室举行。

方向舵联动控制是由球形关节和螺纹粘在一个3毫米碳棒短长。 舵的联系是通过密封用橡

胶粘在一个较短的铜管波纹管横梁。 建立联动中心线位置上的船，然后钻在横梁波纹管洞。

牢记这一联系将移动作为舵侧身旋转，所以你可能要波纹管位置偏离中心一点，以防止在满

舵偏转约束力

Rudder bracket and mount.

舵支架和安装

Drill an undersized hole for the rudder linkage and enlarge to size using a hand reamer.

钻一个孔，舵和扩大连锁矮小的大小用一只手铰刀

Isolation Loop

Fitting an isolation loop, or not, depends on whether you race and if the rules decree you must

have one. However, I would strongly recommend fitting an isolator, if for no other reason than the

ability to make the boat totally safe when changing propellers. This article describes how I make

my own isolators.

I chose to make the loop for this boat using 5.5mm gold connectors and 6mm2 cable, even though

the motor and speed controller use 4mm connectors and 4mm2 cable. The intention with this boat

is to use it for a variety of different setups, so I don't want to have to replace the loop in the future

if I go to a high power setup.

隔离的环

拟合隔离回路，还是不行，取决于你比赛的规则，如果你必须有一个法令。 不过，我会强

烈建议装修一隔离，如果不是有能力使船完全安全的在改变螺旋桨其他原因。 本文介绍了

如何使我的自己的隔离器。

我选择，使黄金在这个使用5.5mm的连接器和电缆船六平方毫米循环，即使电机和调速

器使用4毫米连接器和4平方毫米电缆。 与此船的意图是利用各种不同的设置，所以我不

希望有在未来替代循环，如果我去一个高功率设置

Isolation loop made from 5.5mm gold connectors and 6mm2 cable, supported in oak blocks.隔离

的环黄金制成的5.5毫米连接器和电缆的橡木块六平方毫米支持

SWAMBC broadly runs the same rules as Naviga regarding isolation loops, meaning the loop

must be on the red side of the circuit and be a minimum of 20mm in diameter. To mount the loop

block in the tub, I marked out a rectangle of the same depth as the loop block, but over twice as

long. I cut three sides all the way through, and scored the fourth to allow this flap to hinge inside

the tub. The pictures probably explain it better than my words. The block was tacked in place with

cyano, then fillet strips were added top and bottom to close the hole in the tub.

SWAMBC大致运行作为导航的关于隔离回路相同的规则，这意味着必须在循环电路的红

方，做一个最小的直径为20mm。 要安装在浴缸循环块，我上的一处作为同一深度的循环

块长方形的，但只要超过两次。 我将所有的方式通过三个方面，取得了第四，让这瓣铰链

内的浴缸。 这些照片可能解释它比我的话更好。 该区块是与氰基地方上涨，则增加了带圆

角的顶部和底部将在浴缸里的洞

Loop set into side of tub. 回路设置成浴缸边

Well, I've finished it. I added a water pickup for the cooling system (a length of brass tube

silver-soldered to a strip of brass), and had to knock out the bulkhead between the motor and

battery compartments. This boat was designed originally to take 12 nimh cells in two stick packs

lying flat, the lipo pack is quite a bit longer. 嗯，我已经完成了。 我添加了一个用

于冷却水系统的皮卡（一银黄铜管长度焊接到铜条），并已淘汰的电动机和蓄电池之间的舱

室舱壁。 这船最初是参加两个棍子镍氢电池包平躺时，脂质体组是一个相当长一点。

The finished boat.

I added a couple of layers of carbon-kevlar cloth to the bottom and sides of the motor and battery

compartments to strengthen these areas. A turn fin was made from aluminium and mounted to the

hardwood dowels in the right hand sponson with a couple of countersunk M4 stainless socket

screws. Finally, an aerial tube mount was added, this being a short length of white plastic tube

glued into the hull which accepts the thinner aerial tube. With everything in place, the hull was

then stripped, masked off, primed and painted, then reassembled after the paint had hardened.

完成后的船。

我添加了碳层芳纶布夫妇的底部和电机和电池斗，以加强这些领域的两侧。 转弯是由铝翅

片和安装在同一个插座沉M4的不锈钢螺钉情侣右手sponson硬木销。 最后，空中管芒

是增加，这是一个白色的塑料进入船体，它接受空中管越细粘短管的长度。 一切就绪，船

体当时剥光衣服，掩盖了，并经过涂漆，然后重新组装后的油漆已硬化。

Water pickup mounted in the prop cone.

吸水安装在支撑锥

Internal layout. The front bulkhead had to be removed to accommodate a 4S lipo cell pack..

内部布局。 前面的舱壁，必须拆除，以容纳一家4S脂细胞包

Aluminium turn fin.

铝回合结束

I'll update this when I've had a chance to run the boat and possibly get some video.

我会更

新这个时候我已经有机会运行的船，可能得到一些视频