2024年5月13日发(作者：金士顿sd卡)

托福阅读素材：加拿大的葡萄酒

同学们是否知道加拿大的葡萄酒也是非常好喝的？跟随小编一起去看看吧：

I’m well used to wine being delivered by casually dressed couriers, but one morning last November two

substantial men in suits arrived on my doorstep. They looked like Mormon missionaries, and they assured me that

they too had some wine for me.

快递员身着便装递送葡萄酒是司空见惯的事情，不过去年十一月在我家倒是出现了一次例外：两位身着正装的男士来到

我门前，正襟危立如摩门教传教士般，并称有一些葡萄酒带给我。

“Some” turned out to be seven large cases containing 50 bottles of Canadian wine, delivered by officials

from the Canadian High Commission, no less. Because I’m updating a book and needed to revisit my knowledge of

Canadian wine, I had “reached out”, as common parlance now has it, to Janet Dorozynski whose government job

in Canada is to advance the cause of Canadian alcoholic drinks. If you were hosted by a Canadian official at

Davos this year, your hooch will have been chosen by Janet. Her task for me was to choose wines she thought would

demonstrate the progress Canadian vintners have been making recently.

结果我发现所谓的“一些”还真不少，是装满了七个大箱子的五十瓶加拿大葡萄酒，发件人是加拿大高级公署的官员。

我正在因更新一本书籍的内容而需要重拾加拿大葡萄酒知识，所以向供职于加拿大政府，并负责推广加拿大酒类饮料的杰尼

特?多罗辛斯基(Janet Dorozynski)求助，我请她帮忙的目的是帮我选择那些能够代表加拿大葡萄酒发展现状的产品。顺便

说一句，如果今年你曾被加拿大官方邀请到达沃斯(Davos)，那么你的藏酒有可能被她选中。

Like any government official, she could not show geographical favouritism, so the bottles included not only

dozens from each of the two major wine-producing provinces, Ontario and British Columbia, but also what she

reckoned were the best ferments of Quebec and Nova Scotia. (Actually, I suspect that the very best ferments of

Quebec may not be based on grapes at all but on apples – if Leduc-Piedimonte’s sweet Ice Cider is anything

to go by.) The French-speaking province is clearly a bit too cold for most European vines but of the three Quebecois

examples delivered I was quite impressed by an expensively oaked, mature dry 2008 white from Domaine Les Brome

based on the hybrid grape Vidal.

作为一名官员，杰尼特在为我选择和推荐葡萄酒时当然不能因自己的偏好来筛选产区，所以样品的产地除了来自安大略

(Ontario)和不列颠哥伦比亚(British Columbia)这两个的主要产区外，还包括了魁北克(Quebec)和新斯科舍(Nova Scotia,

Nouvelle-écosse)(实际上我认为魁北克最好的酒并不来自于葡萄，而是来自于苹果——因为莱杜克-皮第蒙特庄园

(Leduc-Piedimonte)的甜型苹果冰酒(Ice Cider)堪称标杆，难以超越)。众所周知，魁北克这个讲法语的地区气候比较寒冷，

并不适合欧洲葡萄品种的种植，但是来自于该产区的三个样品中，有一个倒给我留下了深刻的印象：来自于布罗姆庄园

(Domaine Les Brome)的2008年份干白葡萄酒——这款酒在橡木桶的采用上不惜工本，口感已经非常成熟，由杂交品种威代

尔(Vidal)酿造。

As for the four examples from Nova Scotia, or “Nouvelle-écosse”, I could see strong parallels with English

wine (cool Atlantic-influenced climate, high acid). The Gaspereau, Warner’s Vineyard 2011 dry Riesling, had

more Riesling character than I have ever tasted in my native land while Benjamin Bridge’s traditional method

fizz was crisp and sufficiently well made.

至于来自新斯科舍的四个样品，我感觉它们与英国葡萄酒有相似之处——因受大西洋冷气候影响而具有很高的酸度。加

斯佩罗(Gaspereau)酒厂华纳(Warner’s)葡萄园的2011年份干型雷司令(Riesling)比我尝过的所有英国雷司令都更具品种

特征;本杰明?布里吉(Benjamin Bridge)的传统法汽酒口感新鲜，工艺精湛。

The majority of my favourite wines (see below) had come all the way from British Columbia in western Canada

– and I found them particularly well (and sometimes wittily) packaged. Having not visited wine country in BC

and Ontario for some years, I can report that the wines made in both provinces have improved considerably.

这批样品中我最喜欢的葡萄酒(见文章末尾列表)大多数都来自于加拿大西部的不列颠哥伦比亚，而且我发现其包装也新

颖独特。尽管已经有多年未拜访不列颠哥伦比亚和安大略，但是从此次品尝结果来看，我认为这两个产区近年来有了很大飞

跃。

Overall there were more impressive whites than reds but – presumably thanks to climate change – reds are

no longer pale apologies for wine, even in Ontario where summers tend to be cooler than in British Columbia.

(BC’s wine country is semi-desert and the reds can be strapping. The only problem is the short growing season

and some pretty severe winters.) My three favourite reds, all from BC’s spectacular Okanagan Valley, were wittily

named and very different. Church and State somehow managed to produce a luscious Coyote Bowl 2009 Syrah that

tastes stunningly, recognisably of the north Rh?ne’s grape but is not overly marked by the American oak in which

it was apparently matured. Laughing Stock Vineyards’ Portfolio Bordeaux blend, another product of the 2009 summer,

is perhaps less unusual in how it tastes, but comes in a cunningly etched bottle. And Joie PTG 2010 was perhaps

the single most original wine of the entire shipment, a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir that emulates Burgundy’s

Passetoutgrains blend, which has been coming out of the shadows recently, not least because of rising temperatures.

总体来说，这次品尝的白葡萄酒比红葡萄酒更容易给人留下深刻的印象，不过加拿大红葡萄酒的色度已经有了很大改善，

甚至连安大略这种夏季比不列颠哥伦比亚还要冷的产区也是如此——也许这要归功于全球气候变暖(不列颠哥伦比亚属于半

沙漠型地带，能够酿造出很强健的红葡萄酒，唯一的问题在于较短的生长季节和偶尔的严冬考验)。我最喜欢的三款红葡萄

酒名称都很俏皮，全都来自于不列颠哥伦比亚景色壮美的奥卡那根谷(Okanagan Valley)：教堂与州(Church and State)酿

造的郊狼碗(Coyote Bowl)2009年份西拉(Syrah)非常甜美且令人称奇，可以明显地尝出罗讷河谷(Rh?ne)葡萄品种和典型的

美国橡木桶特征，而且两者配合良好，桶味并未压制果香;笑柄酒园(Laughing Stock)品系系列(Porfolio)的2009年份波尔

多(Bordeaxu)风格混酿也许稍欠个性，但瓶身设计得非常讨人喜欢;怡情(Joie)PTG系列的2010年份是此次所有样品中最体

现原始风格的美酒，采用佳美(Gamay)和黑比诺(Pinot Noir)酿造，走的是勃艮第品种搭配混酿(Burgundy Passetoutgrains

blend)的路线——这种混酿形式近来由于产区温度的升高(或者说是其中原因之一)而渐渐走入人们的视线。

Global warming has been impacting on Canada’s most famous wine style. Earlier this month, after some

nail-biting, BC vintners did manage to pick some Icewine, frozen grapes that are pressed to produce sweet wine.

But the total volume produced continues to fall as temperatures rise. For many years expensive and often tiny

bottles of Icewine were Canadian producers’ pride and joy – something they could reliably produce every year

and which have proved extremely lucrative in Asian markets in particular. If temperatures continue to rise, however,

Icewine may become more of an occasional bonus – as in Germany. I must say that I was not especially impressed

by the three Icewines included in my consignment, although again the French hybrid Vidal seemed at home in eastern

Canada and the 2010 Vidal Icewine from specialist Peller of Niagara was perfectly respectable even if not

especially rich or complex.

全球气候变暖一直以来都在影响着加拿大最着名的葡萄酒——冰酒(Icewine)。这是一种以结冰后的葡萄为原料进行压

榨和酿造而成的甜型葡萄酒，价格昂贵且常常为小瓶包装，在亚洲市场销售得尤其好。由于纬度的关系，加拿大的气候非常

适合酿造冰酒，且产量也很稳定，因此该国酿酒人以此为豪——不过随着全球气候的变暖，冰酒的产量在连年降低。早些时

候，不列颠哥伦比亚地区的酿造商们在紧张焦虑的期待中，终于酿造出了新年份的冰酒——但全球气候若继续变暖，加拿大

的冰酒年份也许会像德国一样，成为上天偶尔的恩赐。我必须承认的是，尽管来自法国的威代尔葡萄品种在加拿大表现得与

在发源地一样好，但此次样品中的三款冰酒并没有给我留下多么深刻的印象。尼亚加拉(Niagara)产区的冰酒酿造专家派勒

(Peller)庄园的2010年份威代尔冰酒尽管香气不够丰厚和复杂，但表现已经算相当棒。

I was seriously impressed, however, by several dry Rieslings, not least those of Tantalus in BC, and by a

relatively early Chardonnay offering from the admired Canadian winemaker Thomas Bachelder who now, ambitiously,

makes a Chardonnay in each of Ontario, Oregon and what he perhaps ought to call O’Burgundy to make up a neat

set of initials. (It would surely be more convenient for him to choose a southern hemisphere region whose harvest

is at a different time of year. Otago perhaps.)

倒是有很多雷司令给我留下了非常深刻的印象，而且不仅限于不列颠哥伦比亚产区的坦塔罗斯(Tantalus)酒厂的产品;

另外还有一款年轻的霞多丽(Chardonnay)表现也很不错，出自加拿大着名酿酒师托马斯?巴舍尔德(Thomas Bachelder)之手。

如今的托马斯信心满满，在安大略和俄勒冈(Oregon)都酿造霞多丽，他称此酒为“O-勃艮第”(O’Burgundy)——他所酿造

的葡萄酒，其名称首字母可以形成一定的规律，以表示延续性和传承性。我认为他还可以在南半球选择一个产区来大显身手，

因为两个半球之间的采摘季节相差半年左右，对酿酒师来说是一种便利，可以两边兼顾——也许奥塔哥(Otago)是个不错的

选择。

There was a respectable Ontario fizz, and things generally look set fair for Canada’s most ambitious wine

producers – except that they still have to sell mainly in the liquor stores that generate so much cash for

provincial monopolies such as Ontario’s LCBO. Here Canada’s best wines, designated VQA, are in competition

with very much cheaper products that, despite a considerable hullabaloo in 2009, are still labelled confusingly.

What would you understand by an “International Canadian Blend”? This is the term that has succeeded “Cellared

in Canada” for liquids made up of grape juice, grape concentrate and wine imported from wherever can supply

most cheaply – together with a bit of the most basic Canadian wine, typically made from the hybrids not allowed

in VQA wines.

对于加拿大有志于酿造优质葡萄酒的生产者来说，前景总体来说还算明朗——唯一可惜的是，他们酿造的葡萄酒大多只

能在酒类饮料店销售，而这些场合的销售为当地的行业垄断部门带来了丰厚的利益，如安大略省酒类管理局(Liquor Control

Board of Ontario, LCBO)。在这些专卖店中，加拿大酒商质量联盟(Vintners Quality Alliance, VQA)旗下优质生产者的

产品与大量便宜酒进行着竞争——这些便宜酒的酒标充斥着很多误导消费者的信息，尽管在2009年此类误导现象引起过很

大的争论，但最后仍不了了之。当遇到“国际-加拿大调配”(International Canadian Blend, ICB)这种继承并发扬了“加

国窖藏”(Cellared in Canada)“精髓”的词汇时，你作何感想?说国际-加拿大调配是加国窖藏的继承和发扬版是因为前者

的原料由来自任何国家的葡萄汁、葡萄汁浓缩液以及葡萄酒(而且通常是哪里的原料价钱最低就选哪里)与加拿大本国最低端

的葡萄酒进行混合而酿造(这些低端葡萄酒都是由加拿大酒商质量联盟所禁止的杂交葡萄品种酿造的)。

Apparently in the trade they are known as ICBs. I’d suggest this might stand for “in cold blood”. The

wine regulators and the Canadian brand owners who bottle these products may not be committing murder but they

seem to me to be deceiving the wine-buying public into thinking that all these concoctions are made from the

fermented juice of freshly picked grapes – the definition of “wine” that is commonly accepted outside Canada.

人们将国际-加拿大调配称为“ICB”，这代表此类葡萄酒已经为大众所默认和接受。我认为这是一件蓄意且残忍的事情，

等同于犯罪。当然，相关法规的制定者和生产这种葡萄酒的酿造商不至于以谋杀的罪名而受责，但对我来说，他们等于是在

欺骗消费者，让他们误以为买到的这些葡萄酒以鲜采的原料通过榨汁和酿造而来——这是国际上公认的葡萄酒定义。

来源于：小马过河

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