2024年2月16日发(作者：)

Frequent Occur Quality Issue Collection

常见疵品种类

Cutting

裁剪篇

1. Fabric selvage should be removed during cutting

面料布边应在裁剪过程中扔掉

2. Shade stamp should be stamped at the place of seam allowance

打码纸应打在缝份位置

3. Cutting grain should not be off

裁剪丝缕应直顺

4. Clean fuse press and all areas when going from dark colors to light

colors.

粘衬时,如从深色换到浅色,要先清理粘衬机

5. Tolerance among same panels should not surpass 1/8’’

同码裁片之间尺寸误差不可超过1/8’’

Sewing

缝纫篇

6. Label should be centered;

商标应居中

7. Stitches, tension and feed should be adjust by using a scrap of same

type fabric to be sewn ahead of sewing, avoid too tight stitch;

应在缝制前用废布(一定是同一种布)调节线迹,张力.针迹不可过紧

8. Lapel , collar, pocket should be consistent left to right;

驳头,领子,口袋处应左右对称

9. Dart length should be the same, must not has dimples at the end of

dart;

省位长度需左右一致,不可有坑

10. Mark pen dot must be cleaned out;

点位笔痕迹需清理

11. Backstitch should secure enough to catch the garments;

打回针需打牢固

12. All areas that are topstitched should be consistent must not be

overlapped, SPI should be set up ahead of sewing

所有明线针迹要一致,不可重叠,每寸的针步要在缝制前设置好

13. Plaid and strip must be matched or balanced;

格子,条子都需左右对称

14. Threads that created by sewing must be cleaned inline

由于缝纫产生的线头必须清理掉

15. Belt loop should be set straight and tight

裤袢绱的必须直顺

16. Stitches should line up and even

线迹要直顺并平整

17. Fullness must be distributed evenly

吃量要均匀

18. Crevice stitches should not show from outside

内缝不可外漏

19. The collar ends should line up even with front plackets

领子尾部不可凸嘴

20. Keep seam allowances consistent especially on unlined garments

保证缝份大小一致,尤其是无里布的衣服

21. Inside seam allowance must be trimmed evenly

缝份应修剪的一致

22. Facing should not rolling out

止口不应反吐

23. Hems should be kept even and consistent in width around.

底边卷边高度应一致

24. Lining at hems should cover hem tape

底边处里布应盖过织带

25. Hem tape should be set by hem tape feet, fullness is not allowed

织带吃势要均匀,绱织带时一定要使用散口压脚

26. Waistband, collar, placket, cuff should always be set flat without

wrapped

绱腰头,领子,口袋,卡夫时要平整,不可起纽

27. Zipper set should be far away enough to avoid fabric being caught

拉链齿不可离面料太近,以防面料卡住

28. Shade stamp should be removed from garments after sewing, except for

special purpose

无用的打码纸需在缝制后去除,除非有特殊要求(如为订商标作参考)

29. Binding should be set with evenly fullness

绱滚条吃势要均匀

Hand sewing手缝

30. Bar tack/button set should not change the straightness of belt loop;

打套结/订纽均不可以改变裤袢的顺直

31. Threads created by opening buttonhole must be cleaned by HS

开纽眼时留下的线头一定要清理干净

32. Hand sew tack should not affect garments appearance (e.g. dimples at

outside)

手缝定位不可影响衣服外观(如起窝)

33. Buttonhole placement should be the same as button in case plackets

are the same top to under.

纽扣位置要正确,以防底襟外漏

34. Hook/eye should not show from outside.

裤钩不可绱的外漏

35. Button color should be all the same color on one garment.

一件衣服上纽扣颜色不可有色差

36. Buttonhole should be set after smooth lapel and facing.

开扣眼时要将驳头与挂面吃势抹均匀

37. For hook/eye style, hook is always on wear’s left

有苍蝇扣的款式, 苍蝇扣要在人体的右边

38. Buttons should be lined up

纽扣定得应齐平

Pressing

整烫篇

39. Armhole tape should be fused with white strip far from armhole edge,

other tapes should be fused at the point where stitches can be caught;

袖笼烫牵条时白色条应烫在离袖笼边较远的一面,这样线迹才能踩在上面起到固定尺寸的作用

40. Don’t lay work on board area or attachment before or after pressing;

烫台上只允许放正在整烫的衣服,其余待操作或已操作的裁片/衣服均不可留在烫台上,以防吸风/打蒸气影响到面料性质.

41. Most fabric should be steamed then vacuum. Avoid steaming and

vacuum at same time;

许多轻烫的面料都应先打蒸汽再给风,不可同时,以防起镜

42. Always dry garments completely after use of steam

打过蒸气的衣服一定要吸干

43. Don’t leave garments or iron on board when away from machine

离开烫台时衣服不可留在烫台上

44. Keep ironing board covers and area free and clean of excessive strings,

dust and soil

烫台布要一天一换,保证烫台上无污渍,线头,灰尘

45. Use teflon shoe to prevent shining.

容易起镜的面料整烫时要穿烫鞋

46. Use shaped board attachment for maintaining shape of seams such

as princess

开缝时要使用摇臂,以保证面料的形状

47. Never press garments with shade stamp on

烫斗不可压在打码纸上,否则留下不可去除的印记

48. Sleeve slit should always be pressed even, especially for contract color

有袖衩的部位需整烫平整,尤其是撞色的